Dyno Time: Testing Our 2016 GSX-R750 Build
Why a Dyno Run Matters
When putting together a track bike, one of the most critical milestones is verifying its mechanical health before pushing it hard. That’s where a dyno tune comes in. A dynamometer (dyno) is essentially a treadmill for motorcycles, measuring horsepower, torque, and air-fuel ratios while simulating real-world riding conditions.
If you've bought a used bike or pieced one together from various parts (like we did), a dyno session helps:
Confirm the engine’s overall health – ensuring it’s running as expected and not hiding any major issues.
Optimize performance – adjusting air-fuel ratios for peak efficiency.
Spot potential problems – detecting fuel delivery or ignition issues before they cause trouble on the track.
With our 2014 GSX-R750 now assembled, we rolled it onto the dyno to see if it was ready for the next phase of the build.
Dyno Results: How Did It Perform?
The moment of truth—how did our GSX-R750 hold up?
Fortunately, the results were solid!
The bike showed no signs of mechanical distress, and the engine responded well throughout the rev range. This means we now have a confirmed, proof of health and confidence that the bike is ready for more track-focused upgrades.
Why Does the Dyno Show 120 HP When Suzuki Says 150 HP?
If you’ve ever looked up the specs of a stock GSX-R750, you might be wondering why our dyno run “only” showed around 120 rear-wheel horsepower (RWHP), while Suzuki claims 150 HP from the factory. Did we mess up the build? Is the dyno broken? Did we accidentally buy a 600?
Nope—this is totally normal and comes down to how horsepower is measured.
Crank HP vs. Rear Wheel HP (RWHP)
Manufacturers report horsepower at the crank – This is measured before power is lost through the drivetrain (engine, transmission, chain, and rear wheel). It’s a best-case scenario number, recorded under perfect lab conditions.
Dynos measure rear wheel horsepower (RWHP) – This is what actually makes it to the ground, after drivetrain losses (typically 10-15%). For a GSX-R750, that means we’d expect to see around 127-135 RWHP in ideal conditions.
Why Our Bike Dyno’d at 120 RWHP
There are a few factors keeping our numbers on the lower side:
✅ Stock Exhaust – The factory system is built for emissions and noise compliance, not max power. A full aftermarket exhaust and tune can unlock an extra 5-10 HP.
✅ Different Dynos, Different Readings – No two dynos are exactly the same; calibration, environment, and even how the bike is strapped down can change numbers slightly.
✅ Rear Wheel Factors – Chain tension, tire pressure, and even minor drivetrain friction can influence results.
The Takeaway
Our 2016 GSX-R750 is right where it should be for a stock exhaust setup, and most importantly, the dyno confirmed the bike is mechanically sound. We’ve got a solid baseline, and if we want more power down the line, an exhaust upgrade is an easy way to get there.
For now, it’s time to focus on the next phase: brakes, grips, and protection upgrades to make sure this thing can stop and survive before we worry about making it faster.
What’s Next for the Build?
Now that the bike has proven its mechanical health, it’s time to move forward with some essential upgrades to fine-tune control and durability on the track.
Because let’s be honest, speed is great, but stopping and surviving are also pretty important.
Upcoming Mods (a.k.a. Why We Don't Want to Die or Cry on Track):
✅ Steel-braided brake lines – Because stock rubber brake lines have the stopping power of a wet spaghetti noodle after a few laps. We like our brakes to work consistently, preferably before turn one.
✅ New grips – When you're dragging knee at 100 mph, the last thing you want is your throttle hand slipping like it’s coated in movie theater butter.
✅ Case savers – If (when) the bike takes a nap, we'd rather not turn a minor low-side into a full-blown garage sob story. These should keep our engine covers from getting road-rashed into oblivion.
✅ Upgraded brake cylinders – Because nothing says "I value my existence" like improving braking power. If we’re going fast, we should probably invest in stopping fast, too.
With these next steps, we’re getting closer to a fully dialed-in track machine. Stay tuned for the next update as we bolt on these parts and get this bike one step closer to its true purpose, going fast and making us look cool (hopefully).
Be well,
Wes